Strolling through Valparaiso: The 21st Century vs. the 19th Century

Bohemian, gritty, a port city. Dirty yet vibrant, cozy yet dangerous, wealthy yet poor, European yet Latin American. All these descriptions fit Valparaiso.

I walked these streets alone, wandering between tourist-polished neighborhoods and authentic chaos during my first month in Chile. I pushed through crowds with my Chilean friends at a Red Bull event to watch urban downhill bikers flying over staircases. I came here to climb at a rock gym set up in the former port docks, all while taking my first steps speaking Spanish.

Recently, I returned, this time with professors from a local university and other scholars in town for an event. It was fascinating to hear Chileans’ opinions about Valparaiso—locals who had lived both here and in various European cities. Despite its many contrasts, Valparaiso is beloved.

We entered a restaurant through a narrow corridor with an open view of the kitchen. The old wooden floorboards creaked beneath us, and the room opened into a panoramic view of the port, with samovars on the bar for some reason. After enjoying some delicious seafood and a pisco sour, it was time to stroll the maze of stairways and streets.

Charming old buildings turned into modern cultural and tourist spots alternate with the common Latin American architectural style of "built from scraps." Under layers of grime, you can still see the outlines of grand stone houses. Street musicians play for the relaxed, cruising gringos from the tour ships. One professor even recognized a student among them—by Monday, the young man would set aside his poncho and traditional instruments to attend a microelectronics lecture.

Despite the bohemian vibe, Valparaiso’s golden age is long gone. Efforts are underway to bring the city a new 21st-century cultural pulse after its 20th-century decline, but true prosperity came in the 19th century.

Back then, German, English, Italian, and French were spoken here alongside Spanish. Latin America’s first stock exchange was buzzing with trade, the port welcomed ships carrying goods from across the globe, and the hills around the harbor filled with architectural projects from all over. Wealthy migrants built the city’s infrastructure to their tastes: Catholic schools from the French, the first secular schools from the Germans, football from the English, volunteer fire brigades, libraries, newspapers, and more. This eclectic blend of cultures is woven deeply into Valparaiso’s DNA.

The city’s wealth came from two sources. First, independence from Spain opened Chile to trade with other countries, ending the trade restrictions imposed during colonial times. Second, Valparaiso became the main port for Atlantic-Pacific routes. It was even nicknamed "Little San Francisco" and the "Jewel of the Pacific." The 19th-century surge in logistics included supporting California’s Gold Rush, so it’s no wonder Valpo became a magnet for merchants from around the world.

But a golden age built on a single resource—in this case, location—inevitably comes to an end. The Panama Canal opened in 1914, changing trade routes. As commerce moved on, wealthy families left, and the city’s former splendor began to fade.

Today, Valparaiso remains one of Chile’s largest ports. It’s lost its transit traffic, but Chile is still open to global trade, and goods from Valpo continue to reach California, Asia, and Europe.

In the 21st century, the city is trying to reinvent itself as a cultural capital. Over its once earthquake-ravaged, abandoned grandeur, vibrant murals have appeared, along with stylish cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops. And its UNESCO World Heritage status is a surefire way to attract tourists.

I enjoy walking through modern-day Valparaiso, but I wish I could witness a day in its life in the mid-19th century. It must have had its own unique energy.